May and up the middle we go
Beltana Station saw us change over from our Mitsubishi Triton to the Land cruiser V8 GXL with a quick 500KM return trip to Port Augusta and I swapped over to the Cruiser. We were still waiting for the roof rack to be delivered which was now another week or two away and we didn't want to hold up our journey north, so we put the yellow ( Banana) canoe inside the van and Nick carried (Apple) the green Canoe for us thru to Oodnadatta where we left it there to collect at a later date.
So now we had the Oodnadatta Track on our bucket list. We departed as a trio of families, Ourselves, the Smiths and the Leeds and headed to Farina ( all of just under 70km away) Farina is a town the Old Ghan railway track that has ruins of the old town that is continually being restored to give travellers the experience and history of the old railway times and towns. We explored and drove all around the old township for hours on end discovering each building and the old sheep & cattle loading ramps that lined the railway track. Ryan found an old car and was happy to give it a go. We settled in for the night by the camp fire with a huge sing along and musical night. We headed off in the morning and made for Marree for Lunch at the historical old town and pub, I am reading the “Mailman from Birdsville” featuring Tom Kruse and it was amazing to see the museum at the Marree pub along with the truck out the front of the pub and really put a lot of perspective on how hard it was in the day to run the mail from Marree to Birdsville. Marree is also where the Birdsville track ends from Qld and you either turn left to go to Adelaide or right and make for William creek and the Oodnadatta track - which is what we did! William Creek is the beginning the Oodnadatta Track and we were looking forward to getting on the dirt roads, With all the vents covered and the rear window of the Cruiser covered we were ready. No phone service and a world of adventure ahead of us. The track started out wonderfully with road workers grading long sections and all the stories we heard of the corrugations and dust seemed like a tale - however this was only short lived.
Leaving Maree we moved on and caught our first glimpse of the magnificent Lake Eyer South. Standing looking over this vast white nothingness high lighted how harsh and unforgiving this wonderful country of ours can be at time. Moving on we stayed at Coward Springs for the night, set up and headed to the small 4 x 2 metre spring pool for a thermal dip and too wash away some of the dust. At only around high 20’s the water wasn't all that warm in the cool southerly breeze but it was refreshing all the same. The next morning we headed off again stop and found another old railway stop a few km up the road - this time is was a station from a town called Beresford, again exploring the old ruins and water filling stations for the old steam trains.
We made for William creek for a couple of days to power up the vans. It is another pub that was on my bucket list and I saw so many business cards and writing on the walls from friends and acquaintances over time, we also added to the wall with our own Loopy Lap being written up above the entry door ( so have a look when you get there ) We were close to Lake Eyre and whilst there was no water in it anymore we were determined to head out and experience the lake and the lowest place below the sea-level on the mainland. Alarms sounding at 4:30am we loaded up the still sleeping kids and headed to the Lake for a warm breakfast. And we needed it ! it must have been around 3c in the wind as the sun rose over Lake eyre but the spectacular view far outweighed the discomfort. We spent an hour or so walking out to the salt crusted lake and watched the sun rise as the moon still featured in the twilight. A sight we will never forget and one we are thankful for making the effort to see and yet another destination off the bucket list. Coming back to camp we hooked up and again in convoy headed off for a bush camp at Algebuckina Bridge which the largest remaining bridge from the Old Ghan Railway line which originally ran from parallel to the Oodnadatta track up joining Adelaide with Alice Springs.
We had a call on the 2 way from a passing truck ( the Mailman ) who thanked us for watering the track behind us. We had smashed all the PVC piped under the van, the electric brake cable and we had lost the rear water tank cap which was the reason we had watered the track for a few Kilometres oh and dust ! did I mention the dust ! it still got in through whatever opening it could, cupboards, drawers and floors (would hate to see how much more could've entered had we not covered up the BIG vents). At this point we decided to continue onto the Oodnadatta Roadhouse and by-pass the Algebuckina Bridge camp for the relative civilisation of Oodnadatta. The track provided stunning views and again the journey far outweighed any issues with the van. We had stumbled into town at the perfect time as the annual Oodnadatta Gymkhana was on for the weekend and the racecourse was open and free to camp at ( along with toilets and hot showers ) We setup next to the race track and the Smiths & Leeds followed us along soon after. Next day after some schooling the fun began with a steer riding event to open up the weekend of fun, the kids watched people riding cos which for them was a foreign idea as they only have seen them at the farm in Dalby with no sign of any one attempting to ride one. All the locals were in town and more and more people arrived over the next 2 days. Next day was race day and with over 40 events organised for the day it was amazing to experience the outback country coming together to ride horses, motorbikes and just catch up with everyone around the area. The kids got involved in running races, egg and spoon races, tug a war events, colouring in competitions and what ever else they could join in and do. With barrel races on horses then followed by the same events on motorbikes it was amazing to see the skills of riders from all around and of all ages. That night we had a roast dinner in the dinner hall and then the party and ball began, with best dressed and auctions etc it topped off an entertaining visit to Oodnadatta and again one that will stay with us forever. We split from the trio travellers here as we made for Coober Pedy so as I could drive back to Port Augusta to finally get the roof rack installed and we could continue north bound on our journey. We settled in at the caravan park for 3 days doing schooling and a few visits to the opal mines and attractions around town. The temperature dropped to around 4 - 5 C and the wind was relentless for days. I headed off early on my own to Port Augusta at 4:30am with 550km ahead of me, I found all of the spare parts needed to repair the damage from to Oodnadatta track and had the roof rack installed. 3:30pm same day I was on my way back to Coober Pedy to top off 1100km in one day. A dinner stop along the way to keep me refreshed at Glendambo then I powered on to Coober to end a very long day. Next day we spent some time exploring Coober Pedy and I fixed all the under carriage of the van along with improving the protection for the next lot of dirt roads we tackle along the journey. Next day I again took off on my own to drive back to Oodnadatta to collect the canoe that Neville the owner of the Pink Roadhouse had generously stored in his shed. Another 400km return trip over and we were all reunited with canoes, repaired van, food restocked, water tanks full from the water pump station in town which has some of the cleanest and best tasting water around, ironic considering there is no water around and at 20c per 40t it was well worth it. Back on our north journey we punched out a long drive day and pulled up in our 6th State, the Northern Territory. Just over the border we had a free camp overnight stop by the road at Erldunda along the Hwy that leads into the Red Centre, Uluru. With our coldest night to date in the van with howling winds which produced a sub 3c temp overnight we were determined to head into the Yulara ( Ayres Rock) Resort and plug into power so we could run the aircon on heater mode ( and we did ) The road into the national park had us driving through pure red desert dunes and barren landscapes with every turn and crest we took the landscape changes and every kilometre more spectacular and diverse from the last. In the distance we caught our first of many glimpses of Uluru ( Ayres Rock) The kids smiled in excitement as this was on their bucket list ( as it was ours ) We checked into the Yulara resort - setup and headed out as soon as possible to drive around the Rock. This was a WOW moment when we approached the rock and finally we were faced with the sheer size of it which immediately gave us the feeling that we were so small in comparison. A quick look around and back to camp to turn on the heater. Up and knock off an hour or two of school work then we headed back to the Rock to meet with the tour guide at 10am to experience the Marla Walk, a 2.5km flat walk to the base of Uluru. Our guide Steve told stories of the Aboriginal elders and their stories of how the rock evolved and of the wildlife and food store that the surrounding bushland provides. The kids listened intently as he explained how the aboriginal people lived and cared for the land around Uluru. With winds still howling the climb was closed and not likely to open during our stay, not that we were going to climb anyhow. We headed back to camp and prepared dinner then returned to the sunset viewing area with cameras and wine in hand. One of the most iconic Australian events that everyone should experience. We setup the cameras on time lapse, sat down for dinner and wine then marvelled in the colour changes that emerged in front of us. Luke filmed it all then rushed back to edit, mix and produce the spectacular event. And what an amazing job he did ( see video when I can get it to load up on Youtube). Home with heater on again as it was still very cold. Next day a bit more schooling then we headed for Kata Tjuta ( The Olgas ) yet another spectacular landscape that the red centre show cases. We hiked into the gorge and then up to the Valley of Winds lookout to take in all the scenery. No tours but the landscape and signage tells all the stories one needs.
Our next stop will be Kings Canyon before heading up to Alice Springs so I will leave this update here as there is a lot more to this month to go.
PS sorry for the order of photos !! This website thingy is whack and doesn't like me alot
Beltana Station saw us change over from our Mitsubishi Triton to the Land cruiser V8 GXL with a quick 500KM return trip to Port Augusta and I swapped over to the Cruiser. We were still waiting for the roof rack to be delivered which was now another week or two away and we didn't want to hold up our journey north, so we put the yellow ( Banana) canoe inside the van and Nick carried (Apple) the green Canoe for us thru to Oodnadatta where we left it there to collect at a later date.
So now we had the Oodnadatta Track on our bucket list. We departed as a trio of families, Ourselves, the Smiths and the Leeds and headed to Farina ( all of just under 70km away) Farina is a town the Old Ghan railway track that has ruins of the old town that is continually being restored to give travellers the experience and history of the old railway times and towns. We explored and drove all around the old township for hours on end discovering each building and the old sheep & cattle loading ramps that lined the railway track. Ryan found an old car and was happy to give it a go. We settled in for the night by the camp fire with a huge sing along and musical night. We headed off in the morning and made for Marree for Lunch at the historical old town and pub, I am reading the “Mailman from Birdsville” featuring Tom Kruse and it was amazing to see the museum at the Marree pub along with the truck out the front of the pub and really put a lot of perspective on how hard it was in the day to run the mail from Marree to Birdsville. Marree is also where the Birdsville track ends from Qld and you either turn left to go to Adelaide or right and make for William creek and the Oodnadatta track - which is what we did! William Creek is the beginning the Oodnadatta Track and we were looking forward to getting on the dirt roads, With all the vents covered and the rear window of the Cruiser covered we were ready. No phone service and a world of adventure ahead of us. The track started out wonderfully with road workers grading long sections and all the stories we heard of the corrugations and dust seemed like a tale - however this was only short lived.
Leaving Maree we moved on and caught our first glimpse of the magnificent Lake Eyer South. Standing looking over this vast white nothingness high lighted how harsh and unforgiving this wonderful country of ours can be at time. Moving on we stayed at Coward Springs for the night, set up and headed to the small 4 x 2 metre spring pool for a thermal dip and too wash away some of the dust. At only around high 20’s the water wasn't all that warm in the cool southerly breeze but it was refreshing all the same. The next morning we headed off again stop and found another old railway stop a few km up the road - this time is was a station from a town called Beresford, again exploring the old ruins and water filling stations for the old steam trains.
We made for William creek for a couple of days to power up the vans. It is another pub that was on my bucket list and I saw so many business cards and writing on the walls from friends and acquaintances over time, we also added to the wall with our own Loopy Lap being written up above the entry door ( so have a look when you get there ) We were close to Lake Eyre and whilst there was no water in it anymore we were determined to head out and experience the lake and the lowest place below the sea-level on the mainland. Alarms sounding at 4:30am we loaded up the still sleeping kids and headed to the Lake for a warm breakfast. And we needed it ! it must have been around 3c in the wind as the sun rose over Lake eyre but the spectacular view far outweighed the discomfort. We spent an hour or so walking out to the salt crusted lake and watched the sun rise as the moon still featured in the twilight. A sight we will never forget and one we are thankful for making the effort to see and yet another destination off the bucket list. Coming back to camp we hooked up and again in convoy headed off for a bush camp at Algebuckina Bridge which the largest remaining bridge from the Old Ghan Railway line which originally ran from parallel to the Oodnadatta track up joining Adelaide with Alice Springs.
We had a call on the 2 way from a passing truck ( the Mailman ) who thanked us for watering the track behind us. We had smashed all the PVC piped under the van, the electric brake cable and we had lost the rear water tank cap which was the reason we had watered the track for a few Kilometres oh and dust ! did I mention the dust ! it still got in through whatever opening it could, cupboards, drawers and floors (would hate to see how much more could've entered had we not covered up the BIG vents). At this point we decided to continue onto the Oodnadatta Roadhouse and by-pass the Algebuckina Bridge camp for the relative civilisation of Oodnadatta. The track provided stunning views and again the journey far outweighed any issues with the van. We had stumbled into town at the perfect time as the annual Oodnadatta Gymkhana was on for the weekend and the racecourse was open and free to camp at ( along with toilets and hot showers ) We setup next to the race track and the Smiths & Leeds followed us along soon after. Next day after some schooling the fun began with a steer riding event to open up the weekend of fun, the kids watched people riding cos which for them was a foreign idea as they only have seen them at the farm in Dalby with no sign of any one attempting to ride one. All the locals were in town and more and more people arrived over the next 2 days. Next day was race day and with over 40 events organised for the day it was amazing to experience the outback country coming together to ride horses, motorbikes and just catch up with everyone around the area. The kids got involved in running races, egg and spoon races, tug a war events, colouring in competitions and what ever else they could join in and do. With barrel races on horses then followed by the same events on motorbikes it was amazing to see the skills of riders from all around and of all ages. That night we had a roast dinner in the dinner hall and then the party and ball began, with best dressed and auctions etc it topped off an entertaining visit to Oodnadatta and again one that will stay with us forever. We split from the trio travellers here as we made for Coober Pedy so as I could drive back to Port Augusta to finally get the roof rack installed and we could continue north bound on our journey. We settled in at the caravan park for 3 days doing schooling and a few visits to the opal mines and attractions around town. The temperature dropped to around 4 - 5 C and the wind was relentless for days. I headed off early on my own to Port Augusta at 4:30am with 550km ahead of me, I found all of the spare parts needed to repair the damage from to Oodnadatta track and had the roof rack installed. 3:30pm same day I was on my way back to Coober Pedy to top off 1100km in one day. A dinner stop along the way to keep me refreshed at Glendambo then I powered on to Coober to end a very long day. Next day we spent some time exploring Coober Pedy and I fixed all the under carriage of the van along with improving the protection for the next lot of dirt roads we tackle along the journey. Next day I again took off on my own to drive back to Oodnadatta to collect the canoe that Neville the owner of the Pink Roadhouse had generously stored in his shed. Another 400km return trip over and we were all reunited with canoes, repaired van, food restocked, water tanks full from the water pump station in town which has some of the cleanest and best tasting water around, ironic considering there is no water around and at 20c per 40t it was well worth it. Back on our north journey we punched out a long drive day and pulled up in our 6th State, the Northern Territory. Just over the border we had a free camp overnight stop by the road at Erldunda along the Hwy that leads into the Red Centre, Uluru. With our coldest night to date in the van with howling winds which produced a sub 3c temp overnight we were determined to head into the Yulara ( Ayres Rock) Resort and plug into power so we could run the aircon on heater mode ( and we did ) The road into the national park had us driving through pure red desert dunes and barren landscapes with every turn and crest we took the landscape changes and every kilometre more spectacular and diverse from the last. In the distance we caught our first of many glimpses of Uluru ( Ayres Rock) The kids smiled in excitement as this was on their bucket list ( as it was ours ) We checked into the Yulara resort - setup and headed out as soon as possible to drive around the Rock. This was a WOW moment when we approached the rock and finally we were faced with the sheer size of it which immediately gave us the feeling that we were so small in comparison. A quick look around and back to camp to turn on the heater. Up and knock off an hour or two of school work then we headed back to the Rock to meet with the tour guide at 10am to experience the Marla Walk, a 2.5km flat walk to the base of Uluru. Our guide Steve told stories of the Aboriginal elders and their stories of how the rock evolved and of the wildlife and food store that the surrounding bushland provides. The kids listened intently as he explained how the aboriginal people lived and cared for the land around Uluru. With winds still howling the climb was closed and not likely to open during our stay, not that we were going to climb anyhow. We headed back to camp and prepared dinner then returned to the sunset viewing area with cameras and wine in hand. One of the most iconic Australian events that everyone should experience. We setup the cameras on time lapse, sat down for dinner and wine then marvelled in the colour changes that emerged in front of us. Luke filmed it all then rushed back to edit, mix and produce the spectacular event. And what an amazing job he did ( see video when I can get it to load up on Youtube). Home with heater on again as it was still very cold. Next day a bit more schooling then we headed for Kata Tjuta ( The Olgas ) yet another spectacular landscape that the red centre show cases. We hiked into the gorge and then up to the Valley of Winds lookout to take in all the scenery. No tours but the landscape and signage tells all the stories one needs.
Our next stop will be Kings Canyon before heading up to Alice Springs so I will leave this update here as there is a lot more to this month to go.
PS sorry for the order of photos !! This website thingy is whack and doesn't like me alot